There is a man at the door and he knows everything

In the better neighbourhoods almost every building has its own guard. He sits by the entrance, knows the residents by name, and doubles as caretaker, gardener and the person who holds the door when your hands are full. Whole compounds are fenced and watched the same way.

They are the most talkative people on the street and worth talking to. They know more about the neighbourhood than any guidebook, because they watch it all day.