Mirador la Herrerita

A café above the town where hummingbirds fly half a metre from your head.

It is a viewpoint and a place to sit at the same time. You look down the valley with Jardín below you and coffee hills all around, and before you finish your cup the first hummingbird arrives. Then a second one, then a whole flock.

They stop dead in the air, hang near you for a moment and are gone. You hear the wings before you see the bird, and it is a sound you remember afterwards.

And the coffee grows on the hills you are looking at while you drink it.

Anyone who thinks they know this from a zoo or a documentary does not know it. Sitting with a cup in your hand among wild hummingbirds is something you still remember that night as you fall asleep.